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This
Page used to be called 'Piano of the Month', but the months became
rather long. so it is now where I put notes about my own pianos, or
anything else I like, Such as...
I've got a New Piano!


Jacobus Ball Fecit
Duke Street Grosvenor Square
London 1798
It has a double action and lever dampers, but the detail is a bit
'different'. James Ball made a number of experiments with
actions, and filed a patent in 1790, I believe. It is numbered "98"
inside, which seems a surprisingly low number for such a well- known
maker. The delicate nameboard decoration (on sycamore) is
painted. This one has neither pedal nor handstops.
I'm not sure what happens next. Those of you who know me
will realise that I have nowhere to put it... But it was just too
good to miss. It has never been restored at all, and as is
usual with a piano of this age, there are 'issues'. I hope to be
able to say more about these in future.
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A Viennese Fancy
We all admire the
‘Classical’ pianos that were made in south Germany and Austria in the last
quarter of the eighteenth century, and most of us would like to own one. The first one that I was fortunate enough to
play, many years ago, was this lovely Heilmann in the Colt Collection.
The nearest I got to
owning an original example of this type was when such a piano (with no maker’s
name) appeared in a Piano Auctions sale in 2004. This piano was in a poor
state, having been discovered in a cellar in London, together with a Sedan
chair and other items – the sort of things we all accumulate over the
years. Its estimate was £500. I joined the bidding for a while, but
realised that the action was getting too hot for me. It was knocked down for £4000. However, its lack of a soundboard did provide
a unique opportunity for the amateur enthusiast to examine, measure, and
photograph the internal structure. (The Welmar sign went for £80 as a separate
lot).
At this point I
should again record my debt to Piano Auctions, Bonhams, and other auction
houses for their understanding and tolerance of enthusiasts like me. The auction viewings provide unrepeatable
opportunities to examine and record historic instruments like these.
Together with the
excellent plan of a Lengerer piano drawn by Christopher Nobbs, these data
provided an excellent starting point for the amateur builder. In most respects the Lengerer resembles the
pianos of J.A. Stein, but I had to deviate from the plan, of course: I
preferred a ‘square’ tail – but I did retain the same internal structure to
provide the same active soundboard profile as the Lengerer. (This design is very similar to the ‘Piano
Auctions’ piano.) Additionally, I
strengthened the wrestplank area by a yoke, as used by Walter, and replaced the
wooden gap brace of the Lengerer by an I-shaped iron piece.
The main structure
is pine; much of what I used was scaffolding planks. By law, these have to be strong and free from
defects. The timber merchant I got them
from had had them in stock for some time, and was happy to be rid of them, but
this suited me fine, as they were well-seasoned! South German makers usually built the visible
parts of their piano cases from walnut or cherry; mahogany was not easily
available in that part of the world.
Some twenty years ago, I had bought a very large cherry tree directly
from a timber yard, and this stock was nicely seasoned.

The structure of the
base is something of a hybrid, based on about six pianos of this type plus a
bit of engineering logic… the triangulated braces are knocked tightly into
position, and should provide good torsional rigidity without excess weight.

The soundboard is a
copy of the Lengerer – the five short bars are relieved underneath the bridge

Lack of space is
something of a problem for me – there are five other pianos partly visible in
this picture, as well as the nameboard of a sixth! I hope that my efforts may encourage others
who do not have the advantage of a large workshop.

The action is
entirely conventional, with wooden kapsels and cloth bushing just tight enough
to prevent the hammers bouncing too much.
All of the action parts are made of pear-wood, except the hammers
themselves, which are lime (graduated from 10mm wide bass to 4mm treble). The coverings are vegetable-tanned goatskin (two
layers in the bass) over harder brown leather.
The originals in the Lengerer were probably bare wood, but this was a
bit too much (or should I say too little) for me! The keyboard is made of lime, and the natural
coverings are ebony. The sharps are
ebony, topped with ivory recycled from an old upright.
I know that the lead
tail-weight will be controversial! Fear
not, the touch is not heavy. The balance
weight is about ten grams, which means that an old British ha’penny placed on
the key-head will prevent its return.
Without these weights, the action would not work at all. And the weights are only about six grams, so
it could be worse! True, most originals
managed without tail-weights, but my hammers are quite light, and the ebony
tops quite chunky. Yes, I did undercut
the key-heads, but not severely.

Here we see the all
the strings and action fitted, but not the dampers. These form an entirely separate unit, which
can be lifted out in one piece. Because
the action is supported by the usual
‘sled’, this can also be removed quickly without disturbing the dampers. In this picture, the front part has been
polished (shellac followed by beeswax) but the rest is unfinished – as it will
be until summer!

As work proceeded, I
was fortunate enough to have the support of an assistant. Here we see the floating panels of the solid
lid being checked for fit. The
damper-cover is in place in this picture, but not the music-desk yet.

Here is the music-desk in place, folded.

And here, set up with the candle-boards extended. We can also just about see that the lid-fold
is unconventional: instead of the front (fall) portion folding back flat towards
the tail of the instrument, this one has a ‘concertina’ fold. This is sheer necessity – the authentic fold would
take up too much room, and mean that I couldn’t squeeze past to reach the
spinet, the Houston, or the Clementi!
As I mentioned earlier,
I can’t finish the lid (and the polishing) until the good weather arrives and I
can take it outside. In the meantime,
the tuning is settling down nicely, the whole thing is completely stable, and I
enjoy the sound it makes. I don’t really
know much about Viennese Pianos (“Nor anything else!” I hear your cry) but our very
good Friend Tom Strange from South Carolina writes:
“If it’s sounding a bit reedy, then I think you’ve hit on an authentic
sound there.... The best understanding
of an authentic sound is a rich nasal sort of expression, that seems more
dynamic than you would think, but of course never approaches the din from a
modern grand. The treble should be very
clear and sweet though short in resonance, the tenor robust and slightly edgy,
the bass clear and raspy.”
Certainly I have had
a lot of fun, and learnt a lot as well.
Purists may object that this is not a faithful copy of any historic
original, but there again, all the old makers had their little ways. And this is my piano! I do hope that my
efforts will encourage others to ‘have a go’.
If anyone has any questions at all, I will be delighted to help if I
can.
David Hackett 2009
A Friend has suggested that a few pointers to
suppliers of ‘hard-to-find’ items may be helpful.
Some of these are easy – the
strings (red brass, yellow brass and iron) are from Malcolm Rose*. The vegetable-tanned goatskin
hammer-coverings are from Harmaton Leathers, Higham Ferrers,
Northamptonshire. (The same goat provided the hammer-coverings
for my Clementi.) I actually made the
main hinges, and the nameplate surround was a redundant ‘0’ from a door-number,
but David Law* can supply many lovely items of brassware, including his lovely
tuning -hammers. The tuning pins I made
myself, from 4” iron nails. This is lots
of fun: they look ‘real’ (not too perfect) and are very cheap. And bashing the red-hot iron is very
satisfying.
Perhaps, though, for the ‘kitchen table’
builder, the biggest problem may be getting timber (whether pine, cherry, or
whatever) tamed and finished to manageable sizes. I have a nice saw and a planer/thicknesser,
but these cost very much less than a piano...
However, if you just have nowhere to put such things, I do
understand. Is there a small woodworker
(shed-builder? kitchen fitter?) near to you that could do these jobs on a cash
basis? Or is there a Friend (in the
right part of the world) who could help?
*See ‘Friends and Suppliers’
Page.
Please ask if you are stuck for any other
bits & pieces! If I don’t know the answer, we will put out an
appeal on the website. That’s what
Friends are for.
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